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CLEANING MOLDY FRAMING & PLYWOOD 1. CLEAN MOLDY SURFACE CLEANING SMOOTH WOOD CLEANING IRREGULAR SURFACES - MEDIA BLASTING CLEANING MOLDY WOOD TRUSSES SANDING WOOD TO REMOVE MOLD 2. DRY THE SURFACE 3. TREAT & SEAL ADVANTAGES WARNINGS SOURCES & TYPES 4. CLEANING MISTAKES CROSS CONTAMINATION USING BLEACH USING OZONE PREVENT FUTURE MOLD COSMETIC MOLDS 5. CLEANUP LIMITATIONS MOLD INFORMATION CENTER ACCEPTABLE MOLD LEVEL ACTION GUIDE - WHAT TO DO ABOUT INDOOR MOLD AFTER THE MOLD CLEANUP ALLERGEN TESTS for BUILDINGS BASICS YOU NEED to FIND, TEST, REMOVE MOLD Basketball Mold Syndrome - BBMS CAT DANDER in BUILDINGS DO IT YOURSELF MOLD CLEANUP DO-IT-YOURSELF WARNINGS FIBERGLASS INSULATION MOLD FLOODS & MOLD CLEAN/PREVENT HARMLESS BLACK MOLD FIND MOLD in BUILDINGS, HOW TO ATTIC MOLD BASEMENT MOLD BLACK MOLD, HARMLESS COSMETIC CARPET MOLD CONTAMINATION CARPET TEST GUIDE CRAWLSPACE MOLD DRYWALL MOLD DIRT FLOOR MOLD CONTAMINATION ESSENTIAL STEPS IN FINDING MOLD FLASHLIGHT HELPS FIND MOLD WHAT MOLD LOOKS LIKE Black Mold Brown Mold Green Mold Red Mold Yellow Mold White Mold Invisible Mold Recognize Cosmetic Mold Recognize Harmless Black Mold HIDDEN MOLD Photo Guide to Finding Hidden Mold Hidden Mold Behind Paneling Spotting Hard-to-See Mold Use of a flashlight to find mold Wall test cuts to spot hidden mold Light colored toxic molds Moisture Gradients and Mold Other Places to Look for Hidden Mold INSULATION MOLD SAMPLE POINT CHOICES FOR MOLD TEST SAMPLING MISTAKES USING LIGHT TO FIND MOLD INDOOR AIR QUALITY METHODS COMPARED INSULATION MOLD ITCHY FABRICS MOLD ACTION GUIDE - WHAT TO DO ABOUT MOLD MOLD APPEARANCE - WHAT MOLD LOOKS LIKE MOLD CLASSES, LEVELS MOLD CLEARANCE INSPECTIONS MOLD CULTURES MOLD DETECTION & INSPECTION GUIDE MOLD DOCTOR? MOLD EXPERT, WHEN TO HIRE MOLDY CARPETS MOLD ON DIRT FLOORS MOLD TEST PROCEDURES MOLD TEST KITS MOLD TEST KITS for DIY MOLD TESTS MOLD TEST PROCEDURES MOLD CLEANUP GUIDE- HOW TO GET RID OF MOLD MOLD CLEANUP HEALTH RISKS MOLD CLEARANCE INSPECTIONS MOLD KILLING GUIDE MOLD LEVELS IN BUILDINGS MOLD by MICROSCOPE MOLD ODORS, MUSTY SMELLS MOLD PREVENTION GUIDE MOLD RELATED ILLNESS MOLD REPORTS ODORS & SMELLS DIAGNOSIS & CURE RENTERS & TENANTS GUIDE TO MOLD STUFF THAT IS NOT MOLD HARMLESS INDOOR PARTICLES THERMAL TRACKING STAINS STAIN DIAGNOSIS & GUIDE TECHNICAL & LAB PROCEDURES THERMAL TRACKING USING LIGHT TO FIND MOLD OTHER IAQ ISSUES OUR FIELD SERVICES OUR LABORATORY SERVICES More Information InspectAPedia ® Home & Site Map Air Conditioning InspectAPedia Bookstore Electrical Environment Exteriors Heating Home Inspection Insulate Ventilate Interiors Mold Inspect/Test Plumbing Water Septic Roofing Structure Accuracy & Bias Pledge Contact Us |
This section of our "How to Clean Mold" article describes common mistakes people make when attempting to clean up mold. Avoiding these mold cleanup errors can save you money and may also avoid dangerous side effects of bleach, mold chemicals, or ozone when improperly applied. This article offers advice on cleaning mold found on surfaces of un-finished wooden building materials such as framing lumber (rafters, floor joists, wall studs), and building roof, wall, and floor sheathing such as plywood, tongue-and groove pine boards, and other structural wood surfaces in buildings. We discuss the pros and cons of using fungicidal sealants and bleach on wood surfaces and give sources and list types of those products. We also discuss common errors made when cleaning wood surfaces, such as relying on bleach or performing expensive and unnecessary cleaning on cosmetic black mold on wood surfaces. © Copyright 2008 Daniel Friedman, All Rights Reserved. Information Accuracy & Bias Pledge is at below-left. Use the links at page left to navigate this document or to go to Other Resources. Use links at the left of each page to navigate this document or to view other topics at this website. Green links show where you are in our document or website. 4. MOLD CLEANING MISTAKES people make when cleaning-up moldy building materials and moldy surfacesThis discussion lists common mold remediation or mold cleanup errors specific to attempts to clean mold from contaminated framing lumber or building sheathing such as plywood or pine boards used for subfloors or roofs. Inadequate cleaning and cross contamination are the two most common mistakes we find when inspecting and testing sites to perform a post remediation clearance for mold cleanup. Using bleaches, sprays, or ozone instead of cleaning are close behind in frequency of mistakes. Other mold remediation errors such as performing only demolition and failing to clean up the dust and debris caused by that step, are important but are not discussed in this moldy wood cleaning document. Mold Cleanup Workmanship, Procedures, & Asbestos: But before discussing these (below) we add that you should be alert for other building contaminants that might need attention and which can be most-economically addressed by combining them into the mold remediation project. A common example is the discovery of asbestos pipe or surface insulation in a building which because of its location or condition needs to be encapsulated or removed. Since the technology for mold remediation involves similar containment and cleaning standards, if you have an asbestos problem at a different area on a moldy building you should discuss adding that work to the job. If asbestos materials are in the mold-remediation area and will be disturbed by the mold cleanup process, removing and cleaning this material will probably be unavoidable and will, unfortunately, add to the cost of the job. Use links at the left of each page to navigate this document or to view other topics at this website. Green links show where you are in our document or website. CROSS CONTAMINATION - Be sure to protect from mold spore cross contamination of other areas when cleaning up moldProtect the areas outside or around the one being cleaned from mold contamination by following published mold remediation guidelines such as the NY City Mold Cleanup guidelines. For large products (more than 30 sq.ft. of contaminated contiguous surface), the procedure involves tenting or sealing off the work area using plastic barriers, combined with establishing negative air pressure inside the work area so that particles and dust do not tend to escape the work area. It is important that you protect workers performing remediation using appropriate masks, clothing, etc. Occupants, particularly people at extra risk of mold-related illness should not perform nor be present during this work. Don't spray or power-wash moldy wood or other moldy surfaces without proper containment as you may be simply spreading mold spores around the indoor environment where you will infect other materials. Small work projects (less than 30 sq.ft.) can normally be handled as a simple building cleaning or renovation project. But during a "small project" you should remain alert for the discovery of a previously unrecognized large area of contaminated materials. If the small project discovers that it has become a large one, work should stop to permit set-up of proper dust and particle containment. More Reading:
Use links at the left of each page to navigate this document or to view other topics at this website. Green links show where you are in our document or website. USING BLEACH - Bleach as a "Mold Medicine" to try to kill mold or prevent mold in buildingsBleach, diluted bleach, or bleach sprays used in cleaning may be appealing but they are unnecessary, potentially dangerous (if you get bleach in your eyes), and the use of bleach tends to lead to improper and inadequate cleaning - if you substitute "spraying bleach" for actually cleaning or removing the mold your cleanup will not be successful. The object of mold remediation is to clean, or remove, the majority of the mold particles (spores, conidiophores, hyphae, mycelia) from the target surface. The operative word to fix in mind is to "clean" or "remove" the problem mold. "Killing" the mold is not the object - first of all because my lab work shows that you're unlikely to kill all of the mold on a surface using bleach, unless you use it at a concentration and duration which is so strong that you're likely to completely destroy the "bleached" material, and second of all because even if you could "kill" every mold spore, you are at risk of leaving toxic or allergenic particles in place - they may be dead but still toxic. Finally, "mold removal" only works if you're cleaning a relatively hard, non-porous surface such as finished wood, painted metal, or plastic. Soft materials like Sheetrock(TM) or drywall which have become moldy generally should be removed, the exposed surfaces cleaned, and then new drywall can be installed (after you've also corrected the reason for the mold growth in the first place). Spraying anything if spraying of fungicides or sealants is to be used in place of actual cleaning or removal of mold is an improper and inadequate practice which risks leaving a reservoir of toxic or allergenic particles in the building. Use links at the left of each page to navigate this document or to view other topics at this website. Green links show where you are in our document or website. USING OZONE - to "Kill" mold to "remove" or prevent mold in buildingsOzone Generators are another futile attempt to "kill" mold instead of cleaning it up. This "magic bullet" approach does not work and can destroy some building materials as well as the health of building occupants. Because of the trouble and cost of performing an effective mold cleanup in buildings, some vendors offer what sounds like an attractive alternative, offering to "kill all building mold" using ozone. One Midwest company offers to tent the building and follow a mold extermination procedure. As with the "bleach" and other "kill the mold" approaches we described above, this process fails to remove the problem reservoir from the building, leaving toxic or allergenic particles. One of our clients, in an effort to remove odor and mold problems from their building, rented a commercial ozone generator ran it aggressively in closed rooms in their home. The ensuing odors, which we tested and traced to oxidized carpet padding, were so severe that the building was no longer habitable. Carpeting had to be removed as well as other oxidized rubber and foam products which had been "ozone treated." Worse, the underlying cause of the original complaint, which we traced to a history of flooding basement and wet building materials there, had gone unrecognized and still needed to be addressed. There are valid applications of ozone as a disinfectant but it is not a valid treatment for mold in buildings. More Reading:
Use links at the left of each page to navigate this document or to view other topics at this website. Green links show where you are in our document or website. PREVENT FUTURE MOLD - Failure to Prevent future mold growth wastes mold cleanup dollarsHow Much Mold Must Be Removed - How Clean Do Surfaces Need to Be?Following a proper mold cleanup, if there is a future mold problem in a building it is unlikely to be due to having left behind an "inoculation" of problem mold. The standard for physical removal of moldy debris varies by material. For drywall we remove all visibly moldy material and continue removing drywall to no less than the next adjacent stud, rafter, or joist. For insulation which has been wet, we remove all suspect insulation and all insulation within 24" of the suspect material. However if moldy and wet conditions were long-standing in a building, removal of all of the insulation may be necessary. Generally it is less costly to remove and discard more material than to "finish" the job and then discover that it needs to be done over again because the initial work was insufficient.
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CLEANING MOLDY FRAMING & PLYWOOD 1. CLEAN MOLDY SURFACE 2. DRY THE SURFACE 3. TREAT & SEAL 4. CLEANING MISTAKES CROSS CONTAMINATION USING BLEACH USING OZONE PREVENT FUTURE MOLD COSMETIC MOLDS 5. CLEANUP LIMITATIONS More Information |
COSMETIC MOLDS - Avoid unnecessary & expensive "black mold" cleanup projects for cosmetic molds and stainsIt's important to distinguish cosmetic Ceratocystis, blue stain mold, blue rot, from other problem molds which in fact might be "toxic black mold" such as Stachybotrys chartarum or harder to spot but often more problematic molds in buildings such as the Penicillium sp. and Aspergillus sp. families of molds. One of our clients had begun a $600,000. "mold remediation" project on their home. A careful investigation of the property found that all of the "black mold" which had frightened the owners and which had resulted in this expensive cleaning contract, was cosmetic "blue stain" mold which had been present on the lumber since the day of construction of the building. The mold was of no concern other than a cosmetic one. Other clients occasionally send "not mold" samples to our laboratory. To be sure you're not incurring a big and unnecessary expense, be sure that the "mold" to be addressed is really mold, and further, that it's not just a cosmetic mold, read the articles below before undertaking a costly mold remediation project. More Reading:
Use links at the left of each page to navigate this document or to view other topics at this website. Green links show where you are in our document or website. | ||||||
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CLEANING MOLDY FRAMING & PLYWOOD 1. CLEAN MOLDY SURFACE 2. DRY THE SURFACE 3. TREAT & SEAL 4. CLEANING MISTAKES 5. CLEANUP LIMITATIONS More Information InspectAPedia ® Home & Site Map Air Conditioning InspectAPedia Bookstore Electrical Environment Exteriors Heating Home Inspection Insulate Ventilate Interiors Mold Inspect/Test Plumbing Water Septic Roofing Structure Accuracy & Bias Pledge Contact Us |
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09/08/2008 - 10/1/01 www.inspect-ny.com/sickhouse/cleanmold4.htm © Daniel Friedman 2006 2001 all rights reserved